Edge of the Woods, the vegetarian market on Whalley Avenue, has my respect. It’s an independent family business with multiple departments and actual principles—a hard line to walk for one year let alone 47. It’s an even harder line to walk when one of those departments is a bakery, keeping two long cases filled with […]
Archive | Food
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Sliced Bread
There’s nothing fancy about Corso’s Deli & Subs. Located in a squat mini mall on Route 1 in West Haven, the humble bones of the place—brick-red floor tiles gridded with dark grout, cement-block walls painted mostly white, old cases finished in mismatched faux wood, a letterboard menu filled with staples and classics—look like they haven’t […]
Taco Standing
Milford’s Don Rene Taqueria says its tacos “must be considered in any discussion of our state’s best.” Challenge accepted. This small restaurant along the Milford Green felt spare and open, with moody dark tables and leisurely ceiling fans. It doesn’t have a liquor license, so diners are encouraged to BYOB. As for service, the word […]
Well Done
Though it has a good name for a dive bar, The Well is not a dive bar. It’s a wine (and beer) bar with dive bar prices, a circular pad burrowed into the lower level of Yale’s still-new Schwarzman Center. (more…)
Early Risers
If you’re a New Havener hoping to catch a good selection at Shef’s, you’d better set your alarm clock. This Cheshire bagelry opens at 6 a.m. most weekdays and 7 a.m. on weekends, and business is known to get frisky fast. I visited one recent Saturday at 7:30 and wasn’t too late to be captivated […]
Palate Intrigue
There are nine vegetarian entrees at Lalibela, the Ethiopian place on Temple Street, and it turns out you can try at least eight of them at once. Just order a double of the Lalibela Vegetarian Combo (usually $17.95 for four selections), then tell your server which of the nine to leave out—in my case, the […]
Super Bowls and Plates
Whatever your reason for watching Sunday’s Super Bowl LVIII—you love checking out the multimillion-dollar advertising; you’ve invested big bucks thanks to legalized online sports gambling; you’re a Taylor Swift-Travis Kelce ’shipper; or, you know, you enjoy watching football—you’re going to need sustenance. (more…)
Natural Selection
Being natural is messy. B-Natural eats clean. The restaurant offers bowls, sandwiches, wraps, salads, smoothies, juices and all-day breakfast, with an open kitchen in back where, during a recent visit, made-to-order components sizzled and simmered. As I placed my order, the cafe’s calm, cool playlist shifted to a smooth Latin cover of Madonna’s “Like A […]
Advanced Coursework
Michelin Guide has referred to omakase as one of the most “revered” and “intimidating” dining experiences. The Japanese word means “I leave it up to you”; that is, the diner leaves it up to the chef to present a meal that is, ideally, “seasonal, elegant, artistic and uses the finest ingredients available.” And yet there’s […]
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