The early Sunday morning of June 3rd wasn’t the customary closing for Christopher Martins Restaurant and Pub. Or any restaurant for that matter. At 1:45am, an irate young man—having commandeered a brand-new Volvo across town, and with police in pursuit—attempted a turn from State onto Clark, veered wide and plowed into the pub’s brick facade. […]
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Surf and Surf
When I hear stories of old-time prisoners in Maine revolting over their steady diet of lobsters, I imagine myself committing crimes just to get thrown behind bars and into a bib. Trouble is, unless you know where to look, it’s tough finding a tender lobster with a view of the water here in New Haven—which […]
On a Roll
“Watch out for the skinny people,” says Helen Xiao with a playful grin. She’s talking about the lean customers who visit the all-you-can-eat sushi restaurants she owns with her chef husband, Sai Cai. They’re the patrons, she explains via an interpreter/manager, who can put away as many as 12 of the chef’s Special Rolls in […]
Holy Oaxacamole
Is guacamole-making an art? And if it’s created tableside in a molcajete, does it qualify as performance art? At Oaxaca Kitchen, the answer is yes to both, and it isn’t the only art to be found. Deep flavor, soulful textures, imagination and composition is everywhere—on the walls, in the dining room and bar, on the […]
Fluent in Italian
If I had to choose one word to describe the cuisine at L’Orcio, it would be “delicate.” This is high praise and might be surprising, considering that Italian food is often associated with words like “robust” and “hearty.” But at L’Orcio (pronounced LOR-cho), Chef Francesco d’Amuri cooks with such a light hand that every bite […]
Currying Flavor
Indian culture is so sensuous. Its colors are vivid and madly saturated. (“Pink is the navy blue of India,” fashion deity Diana Vreeland once observed.) Its religious paintings feature blue-faced gods chasing after bare-bellied ladies draped in silk and jewels; its musical notes are named after animals and associated with body parts; and one of […]
Kindred Spirits
It’s become a bit of an urban myth that The Winchester, a young gastropub in Woodbridge, was named after the infamous watering hole in Shaun of the Dead—a place presumed safe from zombies, where the antique rifle over the bar might still come in handy. I could certainly see it as a setting for a […]
Pita Party
Sababa falafel. It’s so much fun to say out loud. Try it with me: SA-BA-BA FA-LA-FEL. Like Middle Eastern baby talk, right? Actually, it’s Hebrew for “cool, great, all right, no problem.” Now, here’s something else you must try: the food at Sababa, a new eatery on Whitney Avenue brought to you by the talented […]
Will Power
When 116 Crown opened its doors in 2008, it inspired shock and awe among even the most jaded sophisticates. Writers described its retro-modern interior as “James Bond’s rumpus room” and “space-age meets the stone age;” the New York Times raved that 116 was a “chic, urban place where upscale meets pop culture.” Its kitchen produced […]
Food Fight
Even as New Haven Restaurant Week wraps up (just three days remain), we find ourselves with two more not-to-be-missed culinary events sure to appeal to New Haven’s dashing diners: the Iron Chef/Elm City Battle on April 22nd and the combination Kitchen Tour and Tapas Reception on April 29th. Iron Chef/Elm City, now celebrating its fifth […]
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