Before our son was born, Sherkaan was one of our go-to spots for dinner and the occasional long happy hour. The food is typically excellent and the drinks are thoughtfully crafted and surprising. After he arrived, it became something else to us: a godsend.
Every parent knows the newborn stage requires the tactical planning of a special forces mission: pack the gear, move fast and always have an exit strategy. In practice, that tends to limit your dining options.
Judging by the strollers we’ve seen out on the patio this summer, we’re not the only ones to figure out that Sherkaan manages to give parents an ounce of normalcy—at least before the crying starts and someone dashes off to the nearby Lightweb sculpture.
We’ve stuck to the outdoors this summer, but inside there’s air-conditioning, a colorful dining room with bicycles suspended from the ceiling and decorative archways above the bar. In years past, that bar was a perfect destination for an unburdened couple easing their way into dinner with an aperitif. But on the patio, you’ll find all kinds: couples, groups of friends, dogs and their owners, and a few families with young children.
Set back behind the Apple Store, it offers some distance from the noisy parade of Whalley and Elm. Most tables have room for a stroller, while umbrellas and wisteria keep it shady and calm for a sleeping infant. On our last visit, bells rang from Christ Church as we took turns pushing the stroller back and forth.
Over the past few months, it’s also been an easy place to meet friends and family who want to see the baby, especially when we’re not up to hosting. The menu works for most dietary preferences and we’ve had no trouble fitting eight people around one of the rectangular tables.
But there’s another reason we can’t stay away: one of New Haven’s very best brunches can be had at Sherkaan.
It’s only on Sundays and doesn't start until 11 a.m. If you can hold out, you’ll be treated to a limited menu featuring generous portions of Indian-improved brunch staples including avocado toast, everything naan, chai french toast, desi home fries, and $6 mango mimosas (enthusiastically recommended by Brandon, our Zelda Triforce-pinned server).
While we’re ordering for two and still technically eating for three, we shared a few things this past Sunday:
Served on two thick slices of hearty white bread with eggs, avocado, dry garlic chutney, sesame and pomegranate seeds. The eggs had crisp edges and soft yolks, while the pomegranate added small bursts of sweetness and crunch. Substantial enough to share, but also might be a whole meal. It also passed the one-handed test while the other was busy holding a bottle. Having often paid much more for less in the grand game of avocado toasts, this one is a delicious bargain.
A heaping portion of potato hunks, crisp and deeply seasoned, flecked with curry leaves and carrying enough green chili to wake them up without overwhelming them. A side of Maggi ketchup helped them disappear quickly.
Everything Naan - $5
Someone at Sherkaan had the brilliant idea to combine fluffy ghee brushed naan with the world’s favorite bagel seasoning. We shared it. We both wanted more.
There’s also chai French toast ($13), which we’ve enjoyed on other visits. It’s sweet, vanilla-y, warmly spiced and substantial enough that adding it this time would have been ambitious.
For us, the only real drawback is the 11 a.m. opening time, which, on a newborn’s schedule, can feel suspiciously close to mid-afternoon. Still, that small quibble hasn’t stopped us yet.
We like who we are when we're here and, with a little luck, we'll finish a mango mimosa or two before the baby wakes up.
Written and photographed by Daily Nutmeg Staff
