The first thing I noticed about Hamden’s new Haven Beer Company is that it’s ginormous—over 5,000 square feet inside with a corn maze of a parking lot. The second is that it’s gorgeous: airy, modern and glass-windowed to the max. Roughly 200 diners can stretch out in the main dining room (centered around a dramatic, TV-studded oval bar), the back dining room and the tap room. Or, on a temperate day, they might prefer the outdoor biergarten, which now has Bavaria-inspired entryway signage. Special events and parties can be held in yet another space upstairs, with skylights. Five celebrations were booked in the first two weeks it was open.
Third, it’s really not your—or at least my—traditional brewpub, where the focus is usually on the beer and the food is an afterthought, often served from a set of rotating trucks. Haven does make its own beer onsite, but as that ramps up, the business’s true focus may be its melting-pot New American cuisine—from po’ boys to poké and rigatoni to ribeye—incorporating local purveyors and seasonal ingredients along with a New Haven-style pizza section and an active specials program.
This is not to imply that Haven doesn’t take its beer seriously. When I visited, a stable of eight house beers—since expanded—ranged from lagers (including a helles) to IPAs to and a fruited sour of maple and lemon called the Atomic Punch, and the restaurant offers a variety of “guest taps” categorized into profiles such as “crisp & clean” and “dank & juicy,” served in either 8- or 12-ounce pours.
I went straight for the house brews, first trying Neighborly Disputes ($6/$9), a fascinating New England Double IPA finished with sauvignon blanc—the juice, not the wine. The dry astringency of the grape was a nice counterweight to the super hoppy wallop, and the two combined for a sweet, lingering finish. My second choice was the Paz ($4/$7), a Mexican lager that for better or worse, with a garnish of lime, easily recreated the pleasures of a Corona.
On a second visit, I decided to try one of Haven’s craft cocktails, the Frozé ($14), an elevated, boozier take on the vineyard staple. This adult slushie of Campo Viejo rosé, Altos Blanco tequila and strawberry and citrus accents was sweet, frosty and heady, a welcome antidote to a New England heatwave. Of course, there’s also a short list of wines, no liquor added, plus canned cocktails, crafted mocktails and housemade “shots.” I’m eager to try the Off Whitney, a blast of Pink Whitney Vodka blended with berries and tropical fruit.
As for the food, I was consistently impressed. In the mood for seafood on both of my visits, I nonetheless started one meal with a bowl of the Gazpacho ($6), one of my warm-weather faves. I’ve had it in a variety of styles—chunky, silky, hyperspicy, fruity—and concluded it’s a hard dish to mess up. Somehow, though, Haven’s version went above and beyond: silky with a strong character, spicy without being overwhelming, with homemade mango relish and cucumber gratin over the top.
Likewise, the Shrimp Cocktail ($15, though I’m not seeing it on the website menu at time of publication) offered a twist and a turn. Rather than being stuck in a cocktail glass with standard cocktail sauce, Haven presented its five jumbo shrimp oysters-style, on a bed of chipped ice, with both a cocktail sauce and a special citrusy blend I actually preferred. Shrimp of this size can sometimes be “cottony” and unpalatable, but these were succulent. Similarly tender was the Fried Calamari ($15), lightly breaded and served one of two ways: with mandarin chili glaze, fresh thai basil and shishito peppers or house-made Pomodoro sauce and hot cherry peppers. Because I’m not a fan of peppers with my calamari, I waived that option and instead was surprised with both dipping sauces, because my waitress still wanted to make my dish unique.
Some quick words about the waitstaff here: They all seemed genuinely happy and good-natured. One waitress, who said she had 10 years of experience elsewhere, told me, “I can’t believe how lucky I am to have landed this job,” and this was before she discovered I was a reviewer. Another was excited when I ordered her “favorite” entree, the Pan Seared Salmon ($28) with farro pilaf, haricots verts and pesto beurre blanc. I was pretty pleased myself; sparkling fresh and tender within, the fish was perfectly browned to a delicious exterior crunch, as were the al dente green beans. The wheaty farro was a refreshing, hearty alternative to the classic rice dish. There are other tempting sides I could have substituted—French fries, grilled asparagus, herb-buttered roasted corn—but mine struck the right balance.
Haven’s dessert menu cleverly integrates beer with options including Guinness stout-infused Tiramisu ($10) and Panna Cotta ($9) with an IPA berry compote. Some desserts were made entirely at Haven, while others were supplied by Bishop’s Orchards in Guilford. I enjoyed a Bishop’s Chocolate Cream Tart ($12) made with a milk stout and plated with homemade vanilla bean whipped cream and a piquant raspberry purée I’d love to buy a bottle of. Future dessert plans include offering gelato from New Haven’s Gioia.
Other plans include a rooftop bar, which will enlarge Haven’s already considerable presence. “It’s been a long time since Hamden has had a venue like this,” manager Olivia Grant says, and while I’m not an expert on the history of the town’s watering holes, Haven certainly felt special to me.
Haven Beer Company
2323 Whitney Ave, Hamden (map)
Mon-Thurs 11:30am-11pm, Fri-Sat 11:30am-12am, Sun 11:30am-10pm
(475) 300-2125
www.havenbeerco.com
Written by Patricia Grandjean.
