The Hindu American Foundation observes that “people of all nationalities, backgrounds and religions celebrate Holi,” a “Festival of Colors” that emerged in ancient India to celebrate the coming of spring and the virtues and wisdom it symbolizes. Traditionally, celebrants douse each other in colorful powders and dyed water. But the particular way you celebrate, the HAF notes, “depend[s] on regional traditions and where you are in the world.”
Yesterday, on Holi, I stretched that statement further than its writers likely intended, by dousing myself in the colors of Sherkaan’s G&T Flight ($20). Gin-and-tonics have never been my favorite, mostly because the basic version is kind of one-dimensionally bitter, but I knew Sherkaan’s would be different. Settling in at the Indian street food restaurant’s long copper bar, I received my allotted three of four options—any of which you can also order at full size, a la carte—and we were off.
Moving left to right, I started with the Kerala Bloom, whose fruity and roundly botanical nose unified into a note of cranberry so relaxed—so free of the usual cranberry tartness—that it might as well have been sipping on a cocktail of its own. The jewel-like vermillion liquid’s “floral gin, blackberry, ginger falernum [and] elderflower tonic” were more complicated to taste, yet also incredibly easy to drink. Herbal notes—juniper, anise and, yep, there’s the ginger—pushed through the blackberry’s sugar to create a beautifully balanced and super refreshing swallow.
Next was the almost magical-sounding Nilgiri Fog, conjuring India’s Nilgiri Mountains. Compared to the Kerala, it was far lighter on the nose, exhibiting a kind of nectar sweetness with a light lemony twist from the garnish—the subtlety a strong signal that I should’ve tasted this one first. The Fog was also far subtler to sip, in a pleasant way that would have been dangerous in a larger glass. With the menu’s cues, I could pick out the vanilla, the bergamot and of course the gin—as well as, from somewhere, a lace of cooling mint. The chai, not known for being elusive, escaped me altogether—until I came back after a break, by which time either the flavors had blossomed or my palate had returned to baseline.
The flight’s third act was the Mother Wolf, undoubtedly a tribute to Mowgli’s adoptive mom in The Jungle Book. Grapefruit, one of my favorite ingredients, starred on the nose—as it should do when a thick-rinded wedge is in your face—and the palate, where pamplemousse liqueur and grapefruit bitters zealously pumped it up. The elderflower tonic, though, deserves its due as a great pot for the grapefruit to cook in, softening and sweetening—but not erasing—its famous bitterness. The gin is very well-integrated here, so if you want to taste big flavor but little booze, this could be the one.
Tempted by a menu of Holi specials, offered through Sunday or while supplies last, I finished my visit with an order of the Thandai ($10). Served in a standard-sized glass teacup, the portioning at first seemed small. But a thick, milkshakey visage foretold of density and richness to make up for that, and the drink’s creamy core blend of almonds, pistachios, cashews and dates surprised and delighted with a slightly gooey dimension from that last ingredient. Finished off with cinnamon, vanilla and oat milk, it tasted sweet, not sugary, and earthy, not pungent. A single eight-point garnish of anise livened up the nose and even, quite deliciously, seemed to punch up the palate as I neared the bottom.
I can’t say I gained any deeper understanding of Holi from my celebration at Sherkaan. But I can tell you this: I had a very happy holiday.
Written and photographed by Dan Mims.
