East Rock Market is New Haven’s only “food hall”—like a food court, but with higher cooking standards and, therefore, higher eating ones. Since opening in 2021, ERM has struggled to find the right balance of vendors to meet those expectations, shedding some and gaining others. When Don Rene Taqueria, an outpost of the well-rated Milford original, claimed an open spot late last year—joining Ozzy’s (pizza), Meat & Co. (sandwiches) and Rockfish Maki Bar (sushi) in ERM’s lunch-and-dinner lineup—it felt like maybe the final piece of the puzzle had snapped into place.
Finding myself in the neighborhood, I popped in to test that feeling. Everything I ordered came at once, takeout-style, so I ate things in order of urgency, starting with a pair of Roasted Cauliflower Tacos ($4 each, or $2 on Tuesdays). The gourmet-sized—small—corn tortillas were soft yet sturdy, refusing to leak a drop of the salty, lightly smoky and perfectly medium-spicy sauce. Crisp white onion, fresh torn cilantro and toasted pepitas brought layers of extra flavor and texture. The total was really tasty, though I wished the cauliflower and its nice earthy profile had had more time to roast.
I then moved onto the Arroz Moro ($6), which came in a small circular container that seemed stingy for what was effectively white rice and black beans. But the flavor was surprisingly sophisticated. The darkened rice must have been cooked in a seasoned black bean stock, creating a savory, aromatic, comforting dish that could have stood alone on taste. Is it worth $6? If the portion had been doubled, which I assume would add only fractional cost, the answer would be a resounding “yes.” Instead, that “yes” is more tentative.
I had a similar first impression of the Guacamole + Chips ($11), whose guac came in an identical container. And yet, like the arroz, it was totally delicious. The mashed avocado, which was silky but still a little chunky, was finished with uncommonly rich tomato, bright onion, decadently sweet lime juice and a dash of salt, which got a nice extra boost from the unapologetically salty house-made tortilla chips. The crunchy, not-too-fatty chips were great to eat all by themselves, which is something I can’t say about every restaurant chip.
Portion complaints may have been illusory, because, by this point, even with a Kale Salad ($9) left to eat, I found myself pleasantly full. But I actually think it happened because I was eating more slowly than usual, trying to savor this meal and make it last, giving my hypothalamus a chance to catch up.
Which also happens to be a sign of some really good food.
Written and photographed by Dan Mims.
