I don’t remember how I heard about Del Monaco’s Italian Market, which turns 32 in February, but I know how I found it: quirky and unpretentious, set across from Nathan Hale School in quiet Morris Cove, attached at the hip to a small home. Just inside were a few tables and a woman who looked […]
Tight Ship
Docked on the eastern bank of its namesake, tucked behind an ear of the Grand Avenue Bridge, the Q River Grill, hard-opened in January, is a commercial island in a residential neighborhood, a place you’re only likely to find if you’ve already charted a course to it. That’s what I did after a reader sent […]
The Slice Is Right
Amid New Haven’s boisterous pizza debates, Costa Pizza has been quietly making an argument for itself since 2012. Even with a sandwich board on the sidewalk, the little storefront at the bottom of Whitney Avenue is easy to miss. But let the lighthouse on its sign beckon you inside and you’ll find not only thin-crust […]
Double-O
John Brennan, the restaurateur behind Elm City Social and the new Olives and Oil, where he’s also the executive chef, says he doesn’t believe in curses. (more…)
Crust Me
When it comes to pizza, I might live in the wrong town. Eating New Haven’s signature thin-, charred-, bubble-crusted apizza leaves a void in my mouth only one thing can fill: more starch. (more…)
Grand Tradition
Over the door of a milk-white, sky-blue building on Grand Avenue, letters styled after a western saloon read “Grand Apizza,” pronounced “Grand Ah-beetz.” And while it doesn’t seem to get the ink New Haven’s other established pizzerias do, Grand Apizza is no upstart. Opened in 1955, it even has a connection to one of New […]
Sub Title
Before it was a tradition, it was just a habit. In 2002, Eric Wenzel, then a junior at Yale, started going to Alpha Delta Pizza and ordering a chicken sub customized with hot sauce. At one point, he was eating two or three of them per day. He began bringing friends with him to try the […]
Life’s Work
As a boy, Giuseppe Sabino watched his father take a pickaxe into the fields of Caserta, Italy, and upturn acres of cracked Italian soil so they’d be ready for the rain. Meantime, Sabino (more…)