Tag Archives: Italian food

The Slice Is Right

Amid New Haven’s boisterous pizza debates, Costa Pizza has been quietly making an argument for itself since 2012. Even with a sandwich board on the sidewalk, the little storefront at the bottom of Whitney Avenue is easy to miss. But …

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Red, Yellow, Green

“You can’t make everyone happy. You are not pizza.” …

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Double-O

John Brennan, the restaurateur behind Elm City Social and the new Olives and Oil, where he’s also the executive chef, says he doesn’t believe in curses. …

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Crust Me

Abate Apizza and Seafood Restaurant

When it comes to pizza, I might live in the wrong town. Eating New Haven’s signature thin-, charred-, bubble-crusted apizza leaves a void in my mouth only one thing can fill: more starch. …

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Grand Tradition

Over the door of a milk-white, sky-blue building on Grand Avenue, letters styled after a western saloon read “Grand Apizza,” pronounced “Grand Ah-beetz.” And while it doesn’t seem to get the ink New Haven’s other established pizzerias do, Grand Apizza …

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Sub Title

Before it was a tradition, it was just a habit.

In 2002, Eric Wenzel, then a junior at Yale, started going to Alpha Delta Pizza and ordering a chicken sub customized with hot sauce. At one point, he was eating …

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Life’s Work

Flowers at Nica's Market

As a boy, Giuseppe Sabino watched his father take a pickaxe into the fields of Caserta, Italy, and upturn acres of cracked Italian soil so they’d be ready for the rain. Meantime, Sabino…

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Home Plates

Even in New Haven, where Italian food looms large, Skappo Italian Wine Bar manages to be eccezionale. For one thing, there’s no apizza, or even pizza, on the menu. For another, strangers often find themselves sitting together…

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Fire in the Belly

Plain pizza at Da Legna

Owner Dan Parillo is manning the wood-fired oven at his State Street pizzeria Da Legna. He’s got myriad duties to perform or oversee, but he seems most comfortable here in the kitchen, making signature pizzas and small plates, and trying …

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Pie High

Joey DeMatteo at Joey D's

“I’m gonna get whiplash,” says Auntie JoAnn, as she’s known by the crew, looking hurriedly from the large menu mounted on the wall to her right, then back down to the order she’s scribbling, the phone wedged between her ear …

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