Peer into the smoke-filled room with this updated story, originally published October 4, 2012.
The door opens on a dark, wood-paneled lounge. About a thousand liquor bottles line neat shelves behind the bartender. Smiling patrons relax with cigars in leather chairs or chat with one another over tumblers of whiskey at the bar. In the back, a blues band wails, the singer only a few feet from those whoโve moved in close, rocking in time to the music.
This is not the beginning of a 1940s-era movie. This is just a common scene at New Haven bar the Owl Shop. But the establishmentโs nostalgic feel is no mistake; it comes from a long history in the Elm City, and its ownerโs work to keep that history alive.
Greek immigrant Joseph St. John opened the Owl Shop in 1934. Back then it existed as a bookshop, but beyond the world of literature, St. John had another hobby: mixing and selling tobacco, which he began doing right there in the shop. Little did he know that his love of tobacco would persist for decades and, eventually, make the Owl Shop a truly unique spot to relax. The bar, acquired by present owner Glen Greenberg in 1998, is one of the only public venues in the state where a person can both smoke and drink.
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Because it was historically a tobacco shop, and because Greenberg kept that part of the business intact when he renovated to add a full bar, the Owl Shop wasnโt affected by the smoking ban (enacted in 2004). Under the law, individuals can still smoke in tobacco shops.
So, while other establishments have been smoke-free for eight years now, large ceramic ashtraysโlike vestiges from the pastโpace the bar at the Owl Shop. The air is often hazy with the smoke and mingling aromas from fine cigars and custom-blended pipe tobacco, mixed by in-house tobacconist Joe Lentine. Heโs had the job for an incredible 50 years and makes some of the same tobacco recipes used in St. Johnโs day.
The atmosphere may turn some people off, especially now that weโre all used to smoke-free air while imbibing. Yet itโs also the primary reason many newcomers visit the bar in the first place, and why many become regulars. โWe get people from all different walks of life,โ says Greenberg. โThe common denominator is the smoking. No egos. Theyโre just enjoying a cigar and a cocktail and relaxing.โ
Still, there are attractions for the non-smoking crowd. For example, the Owl Shopโs wide range of upscale liquor includes over 150 types of whiskey, a collection Greenberg has personally enjoyed cultivating over the years.
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The general idea is to offer โhigh-end quality products,โ he says, meant to extend to everything else the place does. The food menu includes several small plates, all from restaurant and cheese shop Caseus, while the bread is from Chabaso Bakery. So when you order an assortment of cured meats, the mixed olive bowl or the brie, pesto and apple Panini, you know itโs going to have local flavor, and you can feel confident that flavorโs going to please.
The bar boasts one more, perhaps unexpected, strength: its coffee. Like a true European bar, the Owl Shop offers drinks like the Ristretto (espresso โshort and strongโ), Cortadito (espresso cut with a splash of steamed milk and micro foam) and the Con Panna (espresso marked with whipped cream).
The Owl Shop is capable of being many things to many people, whether theyโre looking for a calm cafรฉ or raucous bar; whether theyโre a group of Yale undergrads looking for something new or regulars whoโve been buying their tobacco at the Owl Shop for years and years. Lentine says heโs had some of the same customers for his entire decades-long stretch, and that their loyaltyโand hisโis in part due to Greenbergโs efforts to keep the place close to its roots.
Which is to say, itโs still a good place to enjoy a guilty pleasure guiltlessly. And that is a truly old-fashioned feature.
The Owl Shop
268 College St, New Haven (map)
Mon-Thurs 10am-1am, Fri-Sat 10am-2am, Sun 12pm-1am
(203) 624-3250
www.owlshopcigars.com
Written and photographed by Cara McDonough.